Literary City Guides

City guides for book lovers, with the bookshops, cafés, literary walks and quiet corners I would send a dear friend to on her first visit.

The USS Alabama at Battleship Memorial Park on Mobile Bay
Literary Travel · Literary City Guides

From Christmas Lights to Carnival: A Holiday Season in Mobile, Alabama

Christmas lights at Bellingrath, a MoonPie drop on New Year's Eve and the start of Carnival: how to spend December and January in Mobile, Alabama.
The Wiener Christkindlmarkt in front of Vienna City Hall, lit up at night
Literary Travel · Literary City Guides

My Christmas Market Wish List: Vienna, Strasbourg, Prague and More

My dream list of European Christmas markets, from Vienna and Strasbourg to Edinburgh and Bath, plus practical tips for visiting without the stress.
Champagne being poured into a row of flutes for a New Year toast
Literary Travel · Literary City Guides

New Year’s Traditions From Around the World

Twelve grapes in Spain, soup joumou in Haiti, black-eyed peas in the South and more. Here are the New Year's traditions around the world I love most.
Colorful parol-style star lanterns glowing at night
Literary Travel · Literary City Guides

Christmas Traditions From Around the World I Want to Borrow

From Jamaica's Grand Market to Ethiopia's Genna and Iceland's book flood, here are the Christmas traditions around the world I'd love to borrow this year.
Isis with braids smiling under a black umbrella among Bath stone buildings in England
Reading Life · Bookshops & Libraries

My First Day in Bath Was a Cruise Stop, and I Spent It in Every Bookshop

My first day in Bath was a cruise stop with one goal: every bookshop in the city. Here's how to do bookish Bath in a day, plus the Jane Austen Centre.
Edinburgh Old Town on a sunny day: people crossing a bridge toward steep stairs, stone tenements and a Gothic spire.
Literary Travel · Literary City Guides

48 Hours in Edinburgh for Book Lovers: The Best Bookshops in the World’s First City of Literature

The best bookshops in Edinburgh, a free poetry library and one big hill: how to spend 48 literary hours in the world’s first UNESCO City of Literature.
Isis in a houndstooth coat and lime green on a cobblestone street in Lisbon
Literary Travel · Literary City Guides

A Literary Walk Through Lisbon With Pessoa, Saramago and Night Train to Lisbon

A literary walk through Lisbon with Pessoa’s Book of Disquiet, Saramago’s rainy 1936 Lisbon and Night Train to Lisbon, and what I found on the page.
Le Bistrot Terrace
Literary Travel · Literary City Guides

The Best Places to Write Alone in Paris, From Garden Chairs to the Seine

Where to write alone in Paris: the Luxembourg Garden chairs, cafés at the off hours, the Musée de la Vie Romantique garden and the quays of the Seine.
A retreat guest dancing down a cobbled street in Italy
Literary Travel · Literary City Guides

How to See Rome Without the Crowds: An Early Riser’s Guide

How to see Rome without the crowds: coffee at the counter, empty piazzas, Campo de’ Fiori opening up and Trastevere at sunrise. An early riser’s guide.
Inside the Ler Devagar bookshop at LX Factory in Lisbon, with floor-to-ceiling shelves, a staircase, the old printing press and the flying bicycle sculpture
Reading Life · Bookshops & Libraries

The Best Bookshops in Lisbon, Including the Oldest Bookshop in the World

A bookish Lisbon guide: Livraria Bertrand (the world’s oldest bookshop), Ler Devagar at LX Factory, Alfama’s little shops and the best views to read by.
A retreat guest on a rooftop terrace overlooking an Italian city
Literary Travel · Literary City Guides

I Let a Coin Flip Decide My Whole Day in Rome

A coin-flip day in Rome: heads left, tails right, no famous sights. Where the coin took me and how to try a spontaneous travel day in any city.